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Miniatures And Mayhem
Monday, 15 December 2008
World Of Warcraft Hunter Guide
Now Playing: World Of Warcraft 

First let me start this off by saying that this is going to be a comprehensive guide for both veteran players and "newbies" alike. I'm not going to base it around just one aspect and as such it should be easy enough for a new player to understand, yet thorough enough for a veteran player to skim through and have a good idea of what's going on. This guide's sole intention is to get you to that ever so magical level (for most classes at least)... 20. From that point on you as a Hunter should know well enough what's going on to make good enough choices on your own and as such I don't see much need to explain anything beyond that point. For A full alliance guide on leveling to 60 check out  


Section I: What a Hunter is and what it is not.

A Hunter is foremost a solo artist, especially at lower levels. Now there's quite a bit of debate as to who "the grand ole daddy of solo'ing" is (Hunter Vs. Warlock), but setting that topic aside it's safe to say that a Hunter is a well designed class for solo'ing. So if you're looking for a class which fits well in groups and does exceptionally well flying solo when the need arises, a Hunter is a prime choice for you.


There are two aspects of which a Hunter is centered around: His pets and his rifle. Sure, a Hunter can go melee but to be quite honest, it's not his forte. A Hunter's melee abilities are far below that of his counterparts (Warriors, Paladins and Rogues) and you should leave the melee'ing to those who excel in that area. You, as a Hunter, melee only when the absolute need arises (i.e. your pet drops aggro). That's not to say that a Hunter CANNOT melee. Far from it. It's just not what his build is intended for. When the chips are down and your back is against the wall, don't worry. You'll do fine. But overall you're better off letting your pet do it's job and you do yours; setting your opponent ablaze from a distance.


Section II: Races

Next to your selection of Talents, what race you choose is going to be your single most important choice when it comes to your Hunter build. No one race is better than another. Each has it's own pro's and con's and as such you should choose a race which will fit more to your playing preference and cosmetic choice (the way you want your hunter to look). As a Hunter you have five choices to choose from. From the Alliance you have Dwarves and Night Elves. For the Horde you have Trolls, Orc's and Tauren. I think it's important to note at this point that later on down the road (i.e. in the end game) there is very little difference between any of the five. Your major pro's and con's are going to stem from your talent choices and the gear that you have on your character. But in the beginning game race does play a role. As you begin to get into the higher echelon of levels, you'll see what I mean. = )




Out of the two choices which you have for the Alliance there is one major difference. Dwarves start out with a much higher amount of hit points and Elves start out with a much higher percentage of dodge (that's in addition to the +1% they get as a racial benefit). What does that mean? That means that dwarves can take more of a beating, which is nice since you don't actually get your pet until level 10, and Elves get hit less often then dwarves do. In the end it all evens out, but that is pretty much the only major difference between the two. Which would you prefer? Double the amount of HP or double the amount of Dodge percentage?


Setting that difference aside Dwarves have a racialy innate talent with Guns (+5 bonus) which pretty much makes them one level higher then other hunters in respect to their skill with their ranged weaponry. Once again, in the lower levels (prior to 30) this is going to give you a slight advantage. But in the longrun it really won't make much difference when you hit the endgame. Elves on the other hand, even though they lack this inherent bonus get a nifty little trick which is unavailable to dwarves and which I find quite invaluable given the right situation... stealth. Elves can stealth, albeit a stationary stealth. Meaning they can't move at all. BUT this ability is quite nice if you're going AFK for a few moments and don't feel like getting ganked by a passing mob or Horde opponent. Or if you're setting yourself up into a nice sniping position. Stationary stealth is the best sort of camoflage you need to prevent from being noticed from a distance. Now this stealt! h pales in comparison to that of a rogue, pretty much anyone who passes within melee range of you will discover you sitting there all by your lonesome. But, considering its a free ability... you can't really complain.


On the flipside Dwarves have a nice tracking ability which allows them to spot treasure chests on their overhead minimap. Not in itself a very Hunter oriented ability but it's just a nice little bonus. But Dwarves also recieve a stoneform ability which gives them some nice immunities at the cost of speed. A nice little ability to have when put in a bind. For instance if your pet drops aggro and you're stuck melee'ing the beast. But those are the differences between the two. You also have their resistance bonuses. Elves get a +10 nature resistance while Dwarves get a +10 frost resistance. Basically Elves are better off against Druids and Dwarves are better off against frost spec'd mages. That's pretty much what it boils down to.




Now with the Horde you have a bit more of choice. Statistically Orc's and Tauren start out with a little bit more hitpoints then a Troll does. However the Troll has more of a dodge bonus then his counterparts. See my previous comments for the Alliance for a reminder of the pro's and con's of this aspect.


Now on the upside Troll's have a higher regeneration rate then his counterparts which helps with having slightly less hitpoints. But on the downside Troll's have a bonus (+5) to thrown weaponry. Which is, for lack of a better word, absolutely useless to a Hunter. If you're using thrown weaponry as oppossed to your rifle/bow/crossbow then you're doing something wrong with your Hunter. However, Trolls get two other abilities which are very nice. A +5% damage bonus against beasts (which you will be fighting primarily) and an instant cast rage which you can use when your backed into a corner. Both are very handy to have.


Tauren seem to be the popular choice for Hunters on the Horde side. Why? I'm not to sure but that's what I see running around all the time. Tauren, like Night Elves, recieve a +10 resist bonus to Nature spells as well as a really nice racial trait: War Stomp. Basically it stuns up to five creatures within your area. Nice to have if your pet drops aggro. They also get a +15 bonus to Herbalism but that's not really pertinent to Hunters. If you want to be an apothacary, that's fine, but we're not discussing that in this guide.


Finally you have Orc's which, is my primary choice for Horde Hunters. Orcs, other then having the second highest HP rating, recieve a +5 racial bonus to Axes, his pet's melee damage is increased by +5% which is really nice, a +25% resistance to knockout and stuns which is really REALLY nice and an instant cast fury which ups his strength by 25%.




Now like I said before each race has it's pro's and con's but ultimately there is no single "best" race of which to choose from. Each has it's perks and it's ultimately up to you to decide how you want to play your hunter. No one race is better then the others and it's not really possible to "gimp" yourself in this regard. So choose carefully and enjoy your choice.


Section III: Leveling

In this section I'm going to describe a couple of different things. First off, I'm going to describe the starting locations of which you'll have to choose to hunt at the lower levels. Secondly I'm going to describe to you the general hunting strategy of which the Hunter employs during these levels. So let's start this off...


First let's start with the Horde. When it comes to the Horde I've noticed very little difference in questing really - well with the starting locations that is. Whether you start off in the Orc/Troll starting area or the Tauren starting area there's not much difference. I have noticed that between the two you'll be running a little bit further with Taurens then you will be with Orc's/Trolls and their starting location. But you'll have a larger stock of beasts with in the Tauren location. So if you were to look at it from a purely statistical perspective the Orc/Troll starting area is a much more efficient area in which to level. But not so much as to really get upset over. You're looking at maybe an hour, at most, of extra time you'll have to spend doing Tauren quests then you would with Orc/Troll. I have noticed that most Tauren end up running over to the Orc areas in order to hunt/gather but that's your choice. Personally I believe that those few are missing out on a lot of very interesting Tauren quests, which give the race its singular feel. Especially the "Earthmother" quests which I absolutely loved.


But leaving that aside, you're really not going to notice a difference unlike with the Alliance, which I confess has a much bigger difference. Night Elves have been pretty much gimped in this area. Not so much with quests and quest rewards, but with the amount of travel which you have to conduct with their quests. You're going to find yourself running ALL OVER the island getting your quests accomplished, and quite honestly, it's really annoying. This is why you'll notice a lot of NE's spending their time trying to get to the Dwarflands in order to level. When you look at it purely statistically, Dwarves got the meat and potatoes of the deal when it comes to their first 10 levels. Small zone, simple quests, quick leveling. I've leveled dwarven Hunters in about 1/2 the time it took me to level my two Night Elf Hunters based purely on the amount of travel time you have to conduct. However, if you do this you'll be missing out on quite a bit of backdrop storyline to the Night Elves. Again, it's up to you. But as you start making alternate characters to play you'll notice the difference, and you'll begin migrating your NE alts to either human or dwarven lands to level for those first 10-15 levels.


The down side to this? As a Hunter you'll inevitably have to return to your homeland in order to do the quest to attain your pet. To circumvent the amount of travel you'll have to conduct in this instance you can do one of two things: Rest in an inn within the dwarven lands so that you can use your Hearthstone to return promptly from the NE lands so that you won't have ride a griffon the entire way back OR do not rest in an inn within the dwarven lands and use your hearthstone once you reach level 10 and it will bring you straight back to your starting location. And then take the griffons back to the dwarven lands. I know this sounds like alot of effort but it sounds worse than it really is and once again it's COMPLETELY up to you. I personally enjoy the extra travel time because even with the extra time it takes to travel back and forth you'll still level in a fraction of the time that it takes you to do so in NE lands. Once again, that's completely up to you. If you do choose to go to the dwarven lands in order to level I highly suggest that you hit up every griffon location on your way there. I'll describe this treck in the final section of this guide. So if this interests you refer to Section 7.


Now once you've reached level 10 you'll need to seek out the Hunter trainer in or near your starting location so that you can begin your most important of quests. Your pet quest. I'm not going into detail regarding this quest because quite frankly, it's pretty self explanatory. I will say that once you complete this quest you'll need to pay attention to the quest givers closing statements so that you can go onto the second part of your pet quest which you will need to complete in order to gain the ability to train, feed and ressurect your pet. This is important, make sure you pay attention so that you'll know who to speak with once your finished. Many a times you'll see players asking why they can't feed their pet in the General chat when, if they paid attention, they would know exactly what to do.


Hunting Tactics:


The most important thing to note up to level 10 is that you have only one aspect of which to choose from "Aspect of the Monkey." This aspect gives you a +8% bonus to your dodge rating. You can have only one aspect up at any one point in time so it goes without saying, that since you have only this aspect, for the first 10 levels you should have this active at all times. Now once you hit level 10 and then 20 you'll recieve your next aspects: Aspect of the Hawk (lvl 10) and Aspect of the Cheetah (lvl 20). Hawk gives you a bonus to your ranged attack and Cheetah gives you a runspeed increase which is useful for travelling.


Primarily you're going to be switching back and forth between Hawk and Monkey so it's a good idea to have these two on your primary quick bar so that you can switch back and forth easily. For instance when your pet drops aggro you'll be able to easily swap back to Monkey in order to go toe to toe with your opponent and then when moving on to your next kill you switch back to Hawk without any messing around. You're going to be using these two so much that it's a bad idea NOT to have them on your primary quickbar for easy access.


After your aspects your going to notice that the majority of your abilities falls unto your rifle/bow. You are after all a ranged combatant! Prior to 10 you're going to notice that your most important shot is going to be Serpent Sting. You're going to want to get this off first because it's a DoT (Damage Over Time), which means that after you shoot the bugger and it runs up to you to go toe to toe it's still being damaged while you're meleeing your opponent. Once you get ahold of Concussive Shot, which is a snare ( a spell which slows the movement of your opponent), you'll be starting off with that shot. Concussive, then hit 'em with your Serpent Sting so that while he's slowly coming after you you'll be able to get a couple more shots off before you have to go melee with your opponent. Now as soon as you get Hunter's Mark (ranged damage buff at level 6) it'll be important to be using that on each and every opponent you go after. So it should look somethinglike this:


Open with Hunters Mark. Tag your opponent with Concussive and a quickly follow up with Sting and then Arcane Shot (level 4 instant damage cast). By the time your opponent reaches you he should be half dead. Good enough for you to deal with him easily.


Now when it comes to level 10... that's when the fun starts. Now you have yourself a tank, your pet. That's to say a guy to go head to head with your opponent while you pelt away with your rifle. Once it get's to this point this is how your opening combat should look:


Open with Hunters Mark. Send in your pet to attack. Let your pet hit your opponent at least once, then launch in with your usual attacks. Now for your first few levels with your pet (10-13) don't be surprised if your pet doesn't manage to hold aggro for you the whole time. As you get higher you'll notice that your opponents will rarely go after you instead of your pet. Now there are a few more things to note in regards to pets but we'll get to that in a later section. Now all the way up to level 18 this is pretty much how your opening combat is going to look. It's quick, effective, and very safe for you. Once you hit 18 that's when you get to throw some interesting things into the mix. Namely traps.


Traps are truly wonderful things. High damage DoT's which will decimate your enemies. However, as useful as they are you'll notice that the best use for them is not when you're solo'ing. Staying to your normal routine is best for solo'ing. But their best use is when you're the "puller" of a group. Which will also be discussed in a later section. Dont' worry, we're getting there = ).


Section IV: Pets

Next to your Bow/Rifle the primary aspect of a Hunter is his pets. Your pet is your best friend. He's the one that keeps you out of harms way and as such it'll do you good to know everything there is to know when it comes to your pet.


The first and foremost thing you should know is that no pets are better than eachother! This is EXTREMELY important to know, because the forums and general chats constantly get swamped with this question. No pet is better than another. Some pet's have slightly more armor. Others have slightly more damage to deal, others have little special abilities that they have which can "proc" but, all in all, pet's are pretty much the same. The ONLY REAL DIFFERENCE is how they look. That's it. Pick a pet which suits your taste or roleplaying aspect of your character and stick with it.


I'm not going to hit on taming because if, after doing your pet quests, you still don't know how to tame... you need to switch classes. Right now. Don't wait. Get another class; something that doesn't require a lot of brainpower. Like a Warrior or something. However, if you paid attention and know how taming works, then please read on.




Let's get this right out of the way because they're the two most commonly asked questions I see. 1.) In order to name your pet you right click it's icon, which is located at the top left hand corner of the screen, right under yours. Then select "name". This is a one time deal. Once you name it, that' it, your done. You can't rename him. 2.) You do the same thing in order to "abandon" your pet as well. Right click his icon and click "abandon". Be warned, this is also a one time deal. When you abandon your pet, that's it, he's gone forever. You'll be doing alot of this to learn your pet skills, which will be described below.


Now, the most important thing to know about your pet is it's Loyalty and Happines level. Loyalty has six different levels that I know of. The longer your pet stays happy the faster his loyalty will grow. Level six takes the longest to attain. Keep your pet happy and his loyalty will grow. Now the effects of loyalty is a bit ambiguous at this point. No one really knows what the actual value of loyalty is. All we do know is that if your pet's loyalty is at it's lowest and it's happiness is at it's lowest your pet will leave you. I'm not too sure if, as your pet gains levels in loyalty, it can actually loose those levels. I've never let his happiness stay so low to actually find out but I would imagine that this is how it works. There might be something to do with damage and armor when it comes to loyalty as well but of this I'm not too sure either. And, of course, that with each successive level of loyalty that you gain with your pet he gains skill points.


Now happiness is a bit more defined. There are three levels of happiness. Unhappy, Content, and Happy. If his happiness level is at Unhappy your pet will only do 75% of possible damage. It will do 100% at content and 125% at happy. So of course you want to keep your pet "happy" at all times. In order to increase happiness you have to feed your pet. Now in order to find out what kind of food your pet eats you have to go into your character screen. Hit the small button which looks like your characters head. This is usually located in the bottom center of your screen. Once there click on the Pet tab. You'll see a picture of your pet as well as his experience bar and his statistics. Now in the upper left hand corner you'll see a little smiley face (or sad face). This is the gauge of his happiness. Hover your cursor over this guage and it will tell you what your pets diet is. That's to say what he needs to eat.


You can find this gauge also next to your pets HP bar on the main screen in the upper left hand corner but only in his statistics window will it tell you what its diet is.


It's always important to know what it is that your pet requires to eat because you'll be picking up meats and what not off of the creatures which you hunt. Such as boar meat off of boars. If your pet eats meat, simply drop the boar meat right on top of your pet and he will feed. If you have a stack of food don't worry, he'll only eat one item at a time; not the whole stack. It's important to know that the higher your pet get's in level the higher "level" food it will take to make him happy. So if you have a stack of boar meat in your pack which you looted off of level 14 boars you're going to notice that it takes alot more of that food to make your pet happy when it's level 20. This is why Cooking is an awesome thing to have as a Hunter. Cooked food is better for your pet then uncooked raw food. ! And will keep your pet happier longer. The higher level cooked food you have the longer your pet will stay happy.


It's a good thing to know that everytime your pet dies he will default to "Content". If he dies while Content he will default to "Unhappy". So it's a good thing to keep your pet happy at all times. Because of this you'll find yourself hunting beasts more often than you'll find yourself hunting humanoid monsters. Beasts drop meat and what not while humanoids will only drop cooked food occasionally (some more often than others). And it's better to get free food then it is to pay for it at an inn. Of course, if you hunt humanoids, you'll be getting money whereas beasts don't usually drop money and that money you can put towards buying food. Yes, it's a chore keeping your pet happy but as you level up you'll notice that it's really not that bad.


After feeding your pet, the next important thing to know is how to train him. This is where it get's a little tricky. The first thing you should do when you get your pet is save up 5 silver and head straight to a Stablemaster. You can find these guys in almost every town and city. Once you find a stable master buy yourself a slot in the stable and put your pet in that stable so you can go tame yourself other pets. The reasoning behind this is because the only way to train your pet in other abilities is to learn them from other creatures. For instance, most coyote's and wolfs have either Bite 1 or Bite 2. In order for you to teach either of these abilities to your pet you must first learn them yourself. And the only way to learn them is to tame a creature (in this case a coyote or wolf) and go hunting for a little bit with him. After a few kills you'll get a message saying that you have learned "Bite 1". Once you learn this you can abandon the coyote/wolf and go retrieve your pet and teach it to him.


In order to teach your pet you have to click on the train icon in your spell book. It's not hard to find so go ahead and get to it. To find out what skills a creature which you have tamed has, go to the pet tab which I described earlier. You'll be referring to this screen alot when you're taming creatures trying to find different abilities to teach your pet. So remember how to find it. Only some creatures can learn some abilities. For instance, a Strigid Screecher (owl in NE lands) can't learn Bite but it can learn Claw and a wolf can't learn Claw but it can learn Bite so on and so forth. The most important of all abilities which you can teach your pet is Growl. This ability basically keeps aggro on your pet and off of you. You automatically know Growl I but to learn subsequent Growls (i.e. II III IV and so on) you visit a pet trainer which can be found in every major city and some towns. You won't be able to learn your next growl until level 20 so I wouldn't sweat! it until then. But make sure your pet learns Growl I as soon as possible because it's the single most important ability you can teach your pet.


In order for your pet to learn new skills he must have skill points. You gain these as your pet increases in level and in loyalty. You can see his current skill point total in the pet statistics screen that I described earlier.


It is important to know that you can only tame Beasts. You can't tame Humanoids and you can't tame Critters, dissapointing I know. I always wanted me a high level rabbit.


Another important thing to know about your pet is how to get him off of a creature. Sometimes you'll send your pet attacking the wrong creature at the wrong time and you want him to return before he starts attacking or perhaps just to pull him off of a creature that someone else hit first etc. etc. In order to do this all you have to hit is the button that looks like a white baby seal. This is the "passive" button. When you hit this your pet will come running back to you right away and will not attack anything, not even if being attacked. Next to the passive button are two other stance buttons: Aggressive and Defensive. Aggresive means that he will attack anything that moves. Defensive means he will only attack what you tell him to attack or he'll attack whatever hits you or he'll attack whatever hits him. The attack button overrides all of the stances however. If you have him set to defensive or passive or even aggressive he'll attack only what you tell him to most of the time. So you don't need to worry about him switching targets midway in battle. Your pet is pretty obedient and intelligent.


Section V: Talents

This I'm going to have to say is going to be your biggest choice that you will make in regards to your character build. Unfortunately this is going to be the shortest section as well because quite frankly there is just too much to annotate here. To put it simply you have three main choices: Beastmastery, Marksmanship and Survival. Pick one and make it your focus.


If you want to focus on your pet then you'll want to invest alot of points into Beastmastery. If you want to focus mostly on your rifle/bow then you're going to want to invest most of your points into Marksmanship and if you want to work on your melee abilities then you're going to work on Survival. Personally, I see survival as the least important of the three. Mostly because, if you have to rely heavily on your melee abilities... you're doing something wrong. That's not to say it's a bad choice, I just don't see much use in it personally.


All of that aside you might want to invest points into Improved Aspect of the Hawk (Beastmastery) and Improved Hunters Mark (Marksmanship). These are the staple of your most important weapons (rifle/bow) and you're going to want to get these sooner or later. I personally focus on Beastmastery early on in order to get Bestial Swiftness as soon as possible. Only because this is probably the most important ability your pet will need when it comes to PvP. If you plan on PvP'ing that is. I would recommend maxing out Improved Aspect of the Hawk, then Bestial Discipline and then get Bestial Swiftness. You're going to want more focus for your pet so he can keep growling to keep aggro and you're going to want to have a higher power ranking for your rifle and this path get's that for you quickly. Afterwards I recommend to work on Efficiency (Marksmanship) and then get to work on your Improved Hunters Mark so that you can get the highest power output for! your rifle/bow.


But like I said before, there is no wrong way to go in this respect, if you know what it is you want. However, I wouldn't recommend just randomly driving points wherever nor would I recommend spreading your points out. Find what you want, and focus in on it. It's better to be exceptionally good in one area then average in several different areas. If you make a mistake, don't worry about it. You can visit your local trainer and have him reset your talent points for you, for a price of course.


Section VI: Your role in a party/PvP

Party Role


This is a very important thing to know, mostly because when playing a Hunter, you tend to solo most of the time and then when you hit up groups you often find yourself wondering, "ok... now what?" To put it simply, your role is that of the "puller." Meaning you are the one that "pulls" the target to the group. Sure, other people can play this role but you, as a Hunter, play this role better than others for one simple reason: Traps. We touched on this a little bit earlier and now we're going to clarify.


This is how it works. Your party waits in a predesignated "safe area". You then head out, find a target and Mark it (hunters mark). Put down your trap right in front of you and fire a shot at your intended target (preferably a DoT). Wait for him to get to you about half way and start walking backwards allowing him to follow you into the Trap that you placed. Once the trap is set that's when you send your pet in to grab aggro and the other "Tanks" of the group (the guys that are meant to take damage) jump in and start pounding on him. Once aggro is pulled off of you, then you start chiming in with your rifle. Do NOT shoot before hand otherwise you'll never get the aggro off of you. Once the kill is done, repeat the process. If the guy your attacking is especially tough you might want to hold your pet back and wait for the tanks to pull aggro first so that your pet doesn't constantly die. It's important to make sure your pet "Stays" with the group and is ! set to "Docile" so that he doesn't start charging ahead preventing your trap from going off. You'll see what I mean if it ever happens to you. It's not fun!




When it comes to PvP, things get a bit more complicated. Hunters aren't built very well for PvP solo'ing. We may be the kings of Solo but we aren't for PvP. If you're going up against a mage, you'll win more often than not. Reason being is that the mage has to worry about both you AND your pet. Not only that but with the combined incomming damage of both you and your pet it takes a mage much longer to get a spell off then normal. So you're going to win quite a bit when it comes to mages. But the problem is, in PvP, you don't always get what you want. Your going to find yourself finding quite a bit of truth in Murphy's Law. Which states, "What can go wrong, WILL go wrong." For instance, Warriors don't need to worry about your pet. To a well suited Warrior your pet is nothing more then an annoyance. So what he's going to do is Charge your butt and take you down as quick as possible to get this filthy little bug off of its tail. Soon as you go down, your pet "despawns" so your going to notice that most people aren't going to worry about your pet. They're going to worry about YOU.


Now if someone is going to try to duke it out with you ranged style (like a mage), then you're going to win. But most people know better then to do that. They're going to get up close so you can't use your rifle/bow and bring it home via melee. Something you're not as good at as others. But when you're in a party well things are quite different. Toss your pet on the mage to try to keep interrupting his casting, Hunters Mark the first Rogue you see (so that everyone knows where he's at) and start plinking away at whatever moves. In a party, you're pretty versatile and valuable. Especially with your tracking abilities. In short, if you're going to PvP make sure you do it in a party atmosphere. If not, then make sure you're very careful of what fights you pick and try to keep as much distance between you and your opponent as possible, because when it get's close to home, you're nowhere near as good as you could be.


Section VII: Closing statement & tips

Tip 1.) Leatherworking and Skinning are the best suited professions for a Hunter. For one, you are going to be hunting beasts more than anything else so you'll not only get the benefit of food for your pet but also the benefit of leather for your tradeskill, and because your armor is Leather (until level 40 when you finally get Mail) you're going to be saving a ton of cash on the most expensive money sink for players: Armor. You'll be making armor for yourself at a FRACTION of the cost it would take to buy it from other players or vendors AND you'll be able to turn a profit by selling what you do make to other classes via the Auction House (located at all major cities). I can't express how much money you'll be saving yourself if you go this route. And that aside, it's just fun. In my opinion anyways.


Tip 2.) If it comes down to armor or melee weapons vs. a better rifle/bow? Go for the rifle/bow. Every single time. You're not going to get hit as often as the tanking classes and you certainly won't be using your melee weapons as often as your ranged weapon so make sure you invest in a new rifle/bow before going out and getting yourself one piece of armor or a new sword/dagger/axe.


Tip 3.) Always keep some form of tracking up at all times. Whether it be beasts while hunting, Undead while in haunted forests or Humanoids while PvP'ing... ALWAYS keep tracking up.


Tip 4.) Soon as you hit 15 head to Loch Modan and go to the Hunting Lodge to start doing the hunting quests given by Daryl and others there. You'll get yourself a good bow/rifle for your level and a 10 slot ammo pouch/quiver. I can't remember what the Horde equivalent of these quests are but I know they got it. It's been awhile since I played a Horde Hunter.


Tip 5.) As stated earlier, here is how you get from NE lands to Dwarf lands or Human lands. Go to the capital city of Darnassus, located west of your starting location. Just stay on the road all the way. When there head to the center of the city. In the center of the city is the bank. It's a tree with a shop set up inside of it. Drop off ALL of your gear into the bank. Once that is done head behind the bank and you'll see a big tree with a purple light surrounding it. Walk into the light and get transported to Rut'therin Village. From there, go to the Hippogriff trainer. He's located at the top of the catwalks. Get a ride from him to Auberdine. Once there head to the docks and look for the sign that says Menethil and take the ship from that dock. That will bring you to Menethil. Once in Menethil talk to the Griffon trainer there to get a new flightpath. Trust me, you'll be glad you do this. Now once that's done run outside of menethil and get yourself killed. I know, sounds crazy but it'll save you a bit of a walk. There should be plenty of gators right outside the gate so you should be able to die quickly. Once you die you'll spawn at the graveyard which is located in the middle of the wetlands. Bascially you just saved yourself 15 minutes of walking. Talk to the spirit guide and respawn. Now follow the road east and avoid ALL creatures, expect to die at least once while doing this last run. It's ok, it's gonna happen. That's why you deposited all your gear in the bank. Just run back to your corpse ressurect and keep heading East. Soon you'll hit a series of tunnels. Becareful of these because more often than not you'll have either Horde NPC's or Horde players hiding out on the other side of the tunnels.


Once you're through the tunnels or you recieve the "Entered Loch Modan", system message yourself killed again. You'll spawn at the Loch Modan graveyard speak with the spirit guide again and respawn there. Find the Griffon trainer in this small town (called Thelsamar) and get the flight path here as well. Once that's done follow the path south into the valley of kings. When you're in here take a right off of the main trail which will lead into South Pass. Run through here into Dun Morogh. Once in Dun Morogh get yourself killed again and you'll spawn and speak with the next spirit guide. You are now in Kharrano's. This is where you'll be centered at until you hit 11 or 12. Not far from here is Ironforge (the dwarven capital). It's just north, follow the road, and take the second right (it goes up a slope). Make sure to get the flight path from the Griffon trainer here (he's located in the center of the city to the right of the great forge. Now if you wanna get back to NE lands it's only a griffon and a boat ride away. Congratulations. You just made the trek in 20 minutes. If you need or want to go to the human lands instead for your beginning levels just take the tram from Ironforge (marked on your map) and that'll bring you to Stormwind which is the humans capital.


Tip 6.) If your pet is having trouble keeping aggro it's probably because he's running out of focus to keep "growling". In this case right click on Claw/Bite to take it off of autocast. You'll notice if something is on "Autocast" because it's borders will be glimmering/glowing. That means it constantly casts over and over again. Take claw/bite off of autocast and keep growl ON autocast. And it should keep aggro from here on out. Occasionally tap the claw/bite action so that your pet keeps it's damage dealing up. It's an extra click, sure, but you better ensure his capability of maintaining aggro. Until you can up his focus some via your talents (talked about this earlier).


Tip 7.) Make friends with an Engineer. They make the best upgrade for Hunters: Scopes. These babies add 1-3 points of damage to your ranged weapon. Upping the base and max damage and subsequently increasing the DPS (damage per second) which is always a good thing. You'll want to definitely start investing in these around level 20ish.


Tip 8.) Though Traps aren't very useful in PvP they are extremely useful while hunting solo and in parties. Take the time to experiment with them and see how they work. With creative use you'll find that such traps like your Ice Trap are pretty useful for things like taming animals.


Tip 9.) If you choose to go leatherworker as one of your professions the first thing you need to get, other then a skinning knife, is more bags. Save up every piece of linen that you find. Tailors will often make bags for free if you supply the linen for them. And you'll need as many bags as you can get your hands on. They fill up fast.


Tip 10.) Pay attention as your hunting. Some monsters are social. That means they bring a friend with them if you attack one. It's good to know what is and isn't social. Especially when you're hunting alone. Nothing can ruin a good pull like an add.


Tip 11.) Pay attention to your pets health. If it gets dangerously low turn off the Growl autocast and pull the aggro onto you. It's better to take a little bit of damage and let your pet live then have your pet die and loose happiness.


Tip 12.) When traveling the best way to stay alive is to have your pet attack whatever it is that's aggro'd on to you. Keep running, soon as the monster aggro's onto your pet click the "passive" button and your pet will follow you again with the monster in tow. You'll live and more than likely your pet won't even be scratched. Keeps you alive and makes for very safe traveling when on foot.


Tip 13.) Remember cooked food is always better then raw food. So try to work on your cooking skill while your at it. And if your chosen pet likes fish, well then learn fishing. = )


Tip 14.) As a Hunter you are required, BY LAW, to say "Oh what a cute pet! Where can I get one?" whenever you see a gnome in somone elses party.


Tip 15.) Be courteous. As a ranged character you have the luxury of being able to beat nearly anyone else at getting monster first. If you see someone going for a monster don't be a dork and shoot it first. Melee's HATE that. And if you see another Hunter's mark on a target, don't be a douche and go after it anyways. Courteousy will get you a long way in this game.


Posted by souza.adam at 7:05 PM EST
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Wednesday, 24 September 2008
Anita Blake Factoids

All liberally stolen from

  Zombies are not "natural" creatures, but must be raised by an animator. Methods of raising a zombie seem to differ, but it seems a sacrifice is always needed. It is also helpful if the animator knows the name of the zombie they are trying to raise.

  The older the zombie, the bigger the "death" needed to raise it. After a few centuries, the only death "big enough" is a human sacrifice. This person is known as the "white goat" or "hornless goat". Anita generally uses chickens or real goats in her sacrifices. Anita has raised zombies over 200 years old without a human sacrifice.

  If a corpse is going to rise as a vampire, it cannot be raised as a zombie. An animator must wait 3 days after death before attempting to raise a zombie. This gives the soul time to leave the body. If an animator can somehow raise a zombie with the soul intact, the zombie will not rot and will retain its intelligence. Only one person has ever figured out how to do this, but Anita killed her.

  Speaking of rotting, zombies may come from the grave looking very alive-looking but it doesn't last. They always rot. Personality and intelligence goes first, then the body. Thankfully, always in that order.

  Zombies are generally harmless and obey the orders of the animator that raised it. However, there are rare cases where zombies go a little crazy and start attacking people. They seem to crave flesh. If they don't get it, they'll start of decay. Flesh-eating zombies last a lot longer than normal. Zombies are solitary and don't run in packs unless they're ordered to.

Ghouls crawl out of their graves on their own - they are not raised like zombies. They also don't rot like zombies but retain their form more like vampires. They are more than animal intelligent, but not by much. They are cowards and won't attack a person unless they are hurt or unconscious. Ghouls don't work with humans, or any other undead. They're like pack animals, but alot more dangerous. If you're not a ghoul, you're either meat or something to hide from.

Cemeteries that have ghoul infestations are usually very old or have satanic or certain voodoo rites performed in them. The evil sort of uses up the blessings, until the ground becomes unholy. Once that happens, ghouls either move in or rise from the graves. No one's sure exactly which.

Join the Church of Eternal Life

If you decide to become a vampire, be sure to check out the Church of Eternal Life. They have councillors there for an easy transition. But they may not tell you everything. For instance, the master vampire who brings you over will have almost absolute power over you. Choose your master carefully.

You won't rise as a vampire if you're killed by more than one vampire in a mass feeding. You must have just one vampire feeding over a space of several days. There are some rare exceptions in which one bite can make a corpse rise as a vampire. A very powerful master vamp can sometimes contaminate every corpse it touches. But normally you must have three bites ending with death. Your corpse will glow in the dark which is kinda cool. After three days as a corpse, you will rise as a vampire. Hungry.

Vampires do not age, so whatever age you died at is the age you will remain. Oh, and don't worry about being raised as a zombie during your three days of death. If you're going to rise as a vampire you cannot be raised as a zombie. Whatever it is that makes a vampire interferes with a raising. Charisma maybe?

Be a Master

If you're going to be a vampire, be a master vampire. Just be prepared to spend two or three centuries kissing vamp butt 'til you come into your full powers. Then go out and find yourself a nice city. You'll probably need to challenge and ultimately kill the master vampire in residence, but hey, house hunting is always a bitch.

Next you need a stalking horse¹. This is another vamp who pretends to be the Master Vampire so all the challenges come their way. When your stalking horse is killed, you just find another to be your puppet. No sweat!

A Bite to Eat

Vampires live on a diet of blood alone. That means no food, so you can give up those chocolate chip cookies you're hiding in the back of the pantry. No drinking either. If you feel the need, you can kick back once and a while and get drunk by feeding off beings with power. And no hangover! 

Warning! You don't need to kill your victims to enjoy their blood. If you choose to kill, remember that it will be difficult to stop. People are like potato chips to vampires. Once you've tasted them, its hard to stop at just one! And don't flaunt your victims. It attracts attention, usually with a stake in one hand and a cross in the other. Vampires are practical. You won't stay alive for centuries unless you're discreet and ruthless. Most vampires stay near cities where its easy to hide their victims.

You will probably end up as a solitary hunter but you may end up hunting in a pack. You certainly will at the beginning when you are newly dead and an older vampire is teaching you the ropes. You may also be forced to hunt in a pack if the master vampire controlling you goes rogue. Some masters use a group kill to solidify the pack.

One last thing to consider is that no vampire can bite a victim three times within a month without running the risk of killing them and raising them as a vamp. So choose your victims carefully. You wouldn't want a passel of whiny vamps underfoot, would you?

Handy Victims

If the hunting is bad, you can always check out the local Freak parties for hassle free dining. Vampire freaks are people that like vampires for sexual turn-ons. They usually hide their marks unless at one of their hangouts. If you see a human with visible bites, they are probably members of the Church of Eternal Life. They are proud of their bites and see them as signs of salvation. You should probably check with Malcolm (Master Vampire of the Church of Eternal Life) before indulging with them.

A Reinfield is a human with just a couple of bites. There is nothing particularly special about them. The term came from the character in the novel Dracula. Before the book, they were called slaves.

A Pomme de Sang is considered very special. The name means "apple of blood" and is a sobriquet among the Council for willing food. If you feed from a Pomme de Sang you are duty bound to protect them, like a shepherd keeping the wolf from his sheep.

Human Servants

Missing the taste of those chocolate chip cookies? Get yourself a Human Servant. A human servant is a human who is bound to a vampire by something called marks. Only a master vampire can have a human servant and not even all of them. Anything your servant eats, you'll be able to taste. You'll also be able to siphon their energy and enter their dreams. Be careful, though, your servant will be immune to your eyes. Also, if your servant dies, you die too. Plusses for your servant include strength, stamina, healing, resistance to injury, and immunity to disease and poison. These, thankfully, make them harder to kill. You'll need to mark them 4 times to complete the process. Caution! After the 4th mark, they'll be as immortal as you are so pick a good one!

A few points about human servant etiquette: Having to share blood with your human servant is a real faux-pas. Only a lesser vampire needs to take blood from his servant to renew his warmth. A strong vampire can do it with touch alone. But if the servant touches the master too long or forcefully, the servant's skin will deaden for the night. On the flip side, you can get a real buzz from drinking from your servant!

Look into my Eyes...

Unlike humans, your Vampiric powers will increase with age. After a certain point, however, your powers will level out and no amount of aging will make you any stronger.

There are a variety of powers that a master vampire can possess. Each master has a different arsenal of gifts such as calling an animal, levitation, or resistance to silver. You may be able to call wolves, rats, ghosts, or even (say it isn't so!) butterflies! Some other possible powers are:
  • Aura - Some vampires can hurt others that have an aura of power. As a general rule only other vampires have this aura but there have been exceptions such as Anita and Larry. They use this aura to cause physical damage without actually having to touch that person.

  • Rot - A rare type of vampire is one that can rot and reform at will. It makes them much harder to kill. The only true surety is fire.

  • Fear - Some vampires can feed off fear as if it were blood. They are called night hags, or moras.

  • Corruption - One of the rarest of vampire talents is the ability to spread corruption from their bite. The bite will cause the victim to rot while still alive. The victim can be healed if another vampire takes the corruption into himself and conquers it. There is danger, for if the vampire is not strong enough, he will rot and die.

  • Sex - Some vampires descended from Belle Morte, Beautiful death have the power of sex. They live on it, breath it. They can gain power through sex and use it as a second lure for mortals. In another time they would be considered an incubus. It is a rare power. 

  • Feel - A master vampire can feel his people like a background noise. In extreme duress, he can feel their pain, their fear. However, this awareness can be blocked by a more powerful vampire, such as a council member.

  • Hide - Really old vampires can hide almost in plain site. They have chameleons beat all to hell when it comes to blending in with their surroundings. They can wrap themselves in shadows, then fling them aside like a cloak.

  • Smell - Vampires don't rely on scent the way shapeshifters do, but they have a much better sense of smell than humans.

  • Cold - Vampires cannot freeze to death and they do not get cold. Most vampires try to play human be wearing coats in the winter but they are not needed.

  • Water - Vampires cannot drown. Nor is running water a deterrent to vampires.

  • Day Walkers - Some vampires can walk around during the day as long as they are sufficiently sheltered.

  • Eyes - All vampires seem to have to ability to enspell or "roll" humans with their eyes.

Vampire Council

All vampires are descended from the Vampire Council. The council decides which of them will send their vampires out to make more. For thousands of years, it was the Queen of Nightmares, Morte de Amore or The Dragon. But they grew tired of the games and retreated inside the council chambers. You rarely see them. Belle Morte, Beautiful Death, sent forth her people to populate the world with vampires. Even her blood cannot make the ugly beautiful, though all is improved by her touch.

The Council consists of seven master vampires and acts not so much as a governing body but as a court or police. It is (thankfully) located in far-off France. The council members are masters at finding that which terrifies you most and using it against you. They will use your desires against you and twist everything you are into a shape of their choosing. They are the nightmare on which all vampires are based. The thing that even other vampires fear.

Queen of Nightmares - Head of the Vampire Council

Traveler - Can borrow vamps bodies

Morte d'Amore - Lover of Death

Belle Morte - Beautiful Death

Mr. Oliver - The Earthmover

Padma - Master of Beasts

The Dragon - Unknown

The presence of the council gives unprotected vampires extra power: early rising and perhaps other gifts. I personally don't think its worth it!

Important Safety Tips

Cross - The light hurts your eyes and its touch can leave a nasty scar that will not heal. Remember that the cross must be blessed and backed up by faith. Feel free to munch on any atheist waving a cross at you. Other religious symbols probably work the same but the theory hasn't been sufficiently tested.

On a curious note, be aware that crosses don't always glow around vampires. They seem to wait for ones that mean harm, though there are exceptions both ways.

Holy Wafers - I'm not sure what would happen if you actually touched one - probably a burn. But a holy wafer placed on windows and doors will prevent vampires from entering a building.

Silver - Potentially fatal, depending on your age and where you get hit. The younger you are, the more likely it is to kill you. Wounds caused by silver will heal almost human slow.

Holy Water - Burns like acid. You cannot heal Holy Water burns.

Fire - Vampires are very combustible. Once you get burning, you keep burning 'til someone puts you out.

Burning Metal - Permanent scars can be created if you shove burning metal into a wound. Fire purifies and stops the healing process, unless you reopen the wound.

Daylight - Stay out of it. 'Nuff said.

Physical Characteristics

 Reproduction - Vampires cannot make babies without a human partner. Most vamps over 100 are sterile, though using a hot tub to keep the body temperature up seems to help. Newly dead vampire males often have leftover sperm from before death. Doctors recommend you wait six weeks before sex after you've become a vampire. Remember, a baby fathered by a vampire runs the risk of Vlad syndrome, a rare birth defect. This can be tested with an amnio.

Female vamps can get pregnant, usually with the newly dead. But the body spontaneously aborts or reabsorbs the baby. A dead body can't give life.

Tears - Vampire tears are tinged red with blood.

Smell - Vampires in a closed, hot space tend to smell. They don't smell like dead bodies. It's the smell of snakes and yet that isn't it either. It's a neck-ruffling smell. Thick, musky, more reptile than mammal. The smell of vampires.

Glow - Strong emotions, like fear, lust, or anger tend to make lesser vampires lose their humanity. Their skin takes on a translucent, almost glowing quality.

Saliva - Vampires have an anticoagulent in their saliva that keeps the blood flowing.

Bleed - Vampires bleed almost like a person.

Fang Facts

  • It's a mark of the new dead that they flash their fangs around. The like the shock effect.

  • Coffin-bait is a whore that does vampires.

  • To stay in a city, all lesser vampires must ask the permission of the Master of the City.

  • A vampire who has been invited into a home can be forced to leave if the invitation is revoked. You will hear a sound like a low sonic pop. A great roaring will fill the room. The door will smash open and a wind will rush in like an invisible river. The vampire will be forcibly removed as if by an invisible hand. The door will slam shut behind him. A vampire invitation can be revoked only by the person who issued it.

  • Anita has never met an older vampire that drives. The older vamps tend to be a bit technophobic.

  • Vampires offer their throat, or wrist, or the bend of their elbow to each other as a formal greeting. The lesser offer up their flesh to the greater as an acknowledgment of power.

  • When a vampire's companion places their hand on the pulse of the vampire's wrist, it declares their status. It shows that they are his human servant or lover and that the vampire considers them his equal.

A Bit of History


Two hundred years ago the Church joined forces with the military in Germany, England, and almost every European country except France. They burned out every vampire or suspected vampire sympathizer in a single day. The history books call is the Day of Cleansing. Vampires call it the Inferno.

It is believed that France did not join because the King of France had a vampire mistress. The French Revolutionaries put out propaganda that the nobility were all vampires at one point, which wasn't true of course. Some say that's why the guillotine was so popular. It kills both the living and the undead.

Daylight Death

When you go to "sleep" for the day it is like dying. It is not gradual like going to sleep. There is pain the your eyes will close all at once. Either your soul or the force that animates you will leave your body. You will not breath and you will have no pulse. You are dead.

The Lesser Smokey Mountain Troll is one of the smallest of the North American trolls They average between three and a half feet to five feet. They are mostly vegetarians but will supplement their diet with carrion and insects. The North American Cave Troll is the only species on this continent smaller than the Lesser Smokey. Trolls were the first protected species in America. The Greater Smokey Mountain Trolls were eight to twelve feet tall and carnivorous. They were not protected. It was hunted to extinction; but then, it pulled up large trees and beat the tourists to death and sucked the marrow from their bones. Hard to get good press that way.
An animator zombie is a killer zombie who was an animator or necromancer when they were alive. They need to feed on flesh before they can remember their lives. They must be burned to be killed.
Animalistic vampires are like PCP addicts. They don't feel pain. Crosses will not work against them. The only person who can control an animalistic vampire, would be the vampire who made it.

Normally a person who is killed by more than one vampire, in a mass feeding, cannot rise as a vampire. You must have one vampire feeding over a space of several days. Three bites ending with death, and you get a vampire. But sometimes a very powerful vampire can contaminate every corpse it touches. And if in addition, the person dies of multiple wounds, the corpse will rise as an animalistic vampire.

Ghosts can't actually hurt you as long as you keep moving and ignore them. Every time you notice them, you give them power to manifest themselves. When they pass through you, it feels like a shock of electricity.
Lamias have retractable fangs and a forked tongue in human form. The fangs are poisonous. In lamia form, the upper body is human while the lower body is that of a snake. Lamias are immortal, but have been listed as extinct for 200 years. Jean-Claude has one (Melanie) working for him at the Circus of the Damned.
Nagas are creatures from Hindu legend. They're mostly pictured as snakes, particularly cobras. They can take human form. Or appear as snakes with human heads. They're the guardians of raindrops and pearls. Nagas are immortal.
A human psychic or witch that acts as a wise woman for a werewolf pack. A vargamor is not lukoi and is always neutral. She never fights or takes sides in challenges. This allows her to remain human, yet still run with the pack. Most packs consider having a vargamor old-fashioned and no longer have one.
Wererats refer to themselves as the rodere. The St. Louis rodere is known as the Dark Crown Clan and their rat king is Rafael. The Dark Crown Clan is allied with the werewolves, though technically, they are allied with Richard, not the pack.

Since rats are small you would think that they would be a prey animal. But rats are omniverous. They eat anything that crosses their path, including humans, if they can't get away. A wererat is not a small thing. They are large enough to be the predators that their namesakes cannot be.
Unlike "real" leopards¹, wereleopards are not solitary and have a pack structure. Wereleopards refer to themselves as the "pard". The female leader of the pard is called the Nimir-Ra, or leopard queen. A male king is called a Nimir-Raj. Leopard Kings and Queens are rare. If a leader is not a king or queen, they are known as a leoparde lionne or lion passant.

Leopard lionne is a term from French heraldry. It's a leopard, or even a lion, rampant in action on a crest. It symbolizes brave and generous warriors having done some brave deed. In the case of the wereleopards, it means protector, even an avenger.

A lion passant is a sleeping lion. This would be a leader that led but did not protect.

Click on the wolf to hear him howl!

How to Become a Werewolf

The least painful way to become a werewolf¹ is to get a bad batch of lycanthropy¹ serum. However, if you're afraid of needles, you can become infected by a werewolf ² in wolf form. Lycanthropes are not contagious in human form and not every kind of lycanthropy is equally contagious. You can get cut to pieces by a weretiger and not get it. A werewolf can barely cut you and you get furry. Almost none of the cat-based lycanthropy are as contagious as wolf and rat. No one knows why. It just the way it works.


When you become infected with lycanthropy it usually takes weeks, or at least until the first full moon for the first shape change. The first change is very violent and you will experience some memory loss. The first few full moons will be almost complete blackouts. This is a temporary condition.

You should have control over the shift unless it is the full moon. The more powerful you are, the more you will be able to control the shift. The closer to the full moon it is, the harder it will be to control your "beast." Usually you will stay in animal form for eight to ten hours, then collapse and change back to human form. It takes a lot of energy to shapeshift early. Werewolves usually spike a temperature right before they change, like a human before a seizure.

Perks, Powers and Drawbacks

Your strength and speed will be greatly enhanced. You will be very hard to kill and heal quickly. Sometimes without medical attention you can scar though. Many injuries can be healed quickly by shapechanging.

Be prepared to hurt when seriously injured, because anesthesia doesn't work well on you. Your body metabolizes it too quickly. Wounds made by silver heal slower and silver can kill you. A vampire wound is alot like silver, it can kill and most heal from those wounds as if they were human. Wounds made by the teeth or claws of another lycanthrope also heal slower, but not as slow as silver or vampire.

Pack Structure

Lukoi - Once you've become infected, you need to join a pack. Usually someone in the pack will sponsor you through the first few months till you get the hang of things. Your new werewolf family calls themselves the Lukoi.

Dominance - Your standing in the pack will depend upon how "dominant" you are. You establish your dominance by challenging other pack members. Dominance fights are rarely to the death and sometimes are not physical fights at all. If the werewolf being challenged does not wish to fight, they simply acknowledge your dominance, and thats that. The highest ranking pack member is the Ulfric, or wolf king.

Ulfric - If you want to be the Ulfric of your pack, you need to be a dominate alpha male (or in rare cases a dominate alpha female). You become Ulfric by killing the existing Ulfric. Fights for the leadership are always to the death.

Fenrir - Once you state your challenge, you will be known as Fenrir¹, challenger. Assuming everything goes well and you kill the old leader, you then get to choose your lupa.

Lupa - The lupa¹ is an alpha female who will be your mate. Alpha couples usually bind for life, so pick a good one. You will probably choose to marry each other in real life, not just in the pack.

Freki/Geri - You will also need to choose your second-in-command, or Freki. There can be two seconds, Freki¹ and Geri¹.

Skoll/Hati - There are also two enforcers. The head enforcer is called Skoll¹ and the second is called Hati¹

Bolverk - Be good or the Bolverk¹ might get you! Bolverk is the title for what amounts to someone who does the Ulfric's evil deeds. It can be anything from trickery, to lies, to murder.

The Munin

The Munin¹ are spirits of the dead werewolves. They exist in sort of a racial memory bank. These memories can be accessed by lukoi who have the ability to speak with them. It a very rare ability.

You become part of the munin by being eaten by the pack when you die. When a pack member is killed, the rest of the pack feeds on the dead body. The dead are not really gone as long as the pack remains. Yummy.

Sex With Humans

You must remember that you're much stronger than a human. If you get carried away you can seriously hurt or even kill a human partner. In fact, the lukoi refer to sex as the "killing dance." And doing the "wild thing" can release your beast early. Not shifting is considered holding back. Rather shocking for the poor human who doesn't know what you are! And often fatal.

Normally your sponsor will teach you about the dangers of sex with humans. If this is not possible, you may be assigned to a Eros or Eranthe who will act as sexual surrogates.


Say Hello - A formal greeting between lukoi is like one friendly wolf greeting another. You rub your cheek along the other person's cheek, then bury your nose in the hair behind their ear.

A submissive greeting in public is a soft kiss, fingers lightly holding their face. In private you run your tongue across their lower lip.

Get Help - To petition another pack member for protection, you move in close without actually touching them. If your petition is accepted, the pack member will touch you. If they don't touch you - run!

Truth in Death

If one werewolf kills another in a hand-to-hand fight, all the loser's possessions will belong to the victor.

Shapeshifters always change back to their original form in death. Always.

Posted by souza.adam at 9:33 PM EDT
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Wednesday, 18 April 2007
And so it begins....

Welcome to the Miniatures And Mayhem blog. I'll be using this space to display various minaiture sculptures and other random mayhem.


Posted by souza.adam at 1:58 AM EDT
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